Professional Climber
Outdoor
Cosi fan tutte 8c+ Onsight
0On the last day of my one and a half month long trip to Spain, I decided to leave the Neanderthal project for some on-sighting in Rodellar.
Rodellar is a place I have spent a lot of time in over the years. Usually it offers cooler temperatures than other climbing crags in the area, due to the altitude. The sector Piscineta is one of the newest sectors in Rodellar, yet in my opinion the best one. I had been there only once before. Back then I took the one hour long trail over the mountain, this time we wanted to try going up the river with a little inflatable boat we bought at a supermarket.
I didn’t know when the sun would hit Piscineta, but I knew it was a morning crag, the sun would hit sometime during the day, so time was of the essence. We got up relatively early for what we thought would be a 1,5 hour drive from Santa Linya, but roughly 5 kilometers before Rodellar we had to wait an hour due to roadwork on the narrow mountain road. Not a good start. Getting up the river proved to be a cold affair. After 10 minutes on a trail alongside the river, it suddenly stopped. There were 20-meter cliffs on both sides of the river and we could not see the end of it. The little rubber boat could only hold one person and our bags, and the rest of us would have to swim, for how long we did not know. As I was the one to suggest Piscineta, I felt it was my responsibility to swim first. It proved to be only 200 hundred meters, but felt like ages. I had to grab on to some holds I could find on the way just to catch my breath and get my body above water for a few seconds. The fact that we swam against the stream made it even worse.
After getting to the other side, I could only wait for the boat to come with my warm clothes, hoping that this was it, and that there would be no more swimming. Luckily there wasn’t, but on several occasions we had to walk up the river with water above our waists. When we finally reached the 55 meter long cliff of Piscineta two hours later I was both freezing and sunburned at the same time. We sat around for almost an hour to dry our clothes and gain energy to climb. Surprisingly enough my body actually felt pretty energized and awake after the cold swim. I started warming up by onsighting the first pitch of Black Pearl 8a+. Things felt good, despite the epic journey we had getting there.
As usual I went there without any plan but as I was feeling strong and psyched I wanted to give something really hard a good insight burn. My eye was set on Cosi fan tutte. In my opinion the best line on the wall; 55 meters of overhanging climbing.
The first part of it is 8a+, which I managed to climb without any difficulties. I got through a wet part of it without hesitation. The first part was followed by some easy climbing before I got up to what I thought was the physical crux; a section of some small, but positive holds. Again I didn’t hesitate. I got through the part, by looking at it, choosing a sequence and sticking to it. I started getting pretty pumped, but got it back on some jugs higher up. I was now on the very top of the route, all that remained was getting around the lip and a few meters of slab. I stalled as I couldn’t see any obvious holds. From a good undercut, where I could rest, I grabbed a two-finger pocket and reached as high as I could in hopes on finding something to pull on. Many times I retreated to the undercut. The sun was shining directly on the slab and in my eyes, making it even harder to see where I was supposed to go. After repeating the process of searching for holds and resting I knew I had to do something before getting too tired to have any chance. So I grabbed the pocket, reached as far as I could. I only got two fingers on a sloppy edge, and thought I was going to fall. I then bumped to get my remaining fingers on the hold, before I jumped to a dice looking hold. My feet cut, and I desperately got them above the lip. I grabbed some sloppy crimpers without any chalk. Then reached out to the top hold, thinking I could fall at any moment. Not until I had clipped the chain I was safe.
It was truely satisfying to for once win a desperate on-sight battle!
Ciudad de Dios 9a/+ film
0While waiting for Neanderthal to dry up I did another hard route in the cave. Ciudad de Dios 9a/+. It was captured by Henning Wang, who agreed to release the footage as a teaser for his film project; The Santa Linya collective.
Easy way of living
0Time is passing by quicker than ever before. I feel like I have fallen into a routine. Two days of climbing one day off, with an occasional double restday. I try to climb on Neanderthal as much as possible. Though it looks like the route is not yet ready to be climbed. The weather keeps preventing me, testing my patience over and over again. I’m not exactly known for my patience, though I haven’t had a single day of restlessness. That is most likely because my stubborn side has taken over. I have come to ease with this lifestyle and pattern of days being very alike, yet interesting in their own way. I will do everything I can to do this route before the season here is over. If that doesn’t happen I will come back next year. Though I really hope to get this done now that I’m so close. I have stayed strong even during some of the most wet days and doing good links, so that I’m prepared when the window of good conditions open for what might be the last time this season.
Neanderthal. Photo: Henning Wang
The tufa I keep complaining about is the only good resting point and has been wet for a week straight now. Photo: Henning Wang
Putting up a new bolt that was sticking out. Hanger fell off it when I pulled the rope one day. You climb 8 meter above the bolt and it is pretty far down to the next, so that could have been bad. Photo: Henning Wang
Margalef, Terrence hill 8b+ Onsight Photo: Henning Wang
Some days we go climbing easier routes other places, mostly for the change of scenery. The picture above is from one of our adventurous days, having to cross a flooded river. All the time spent in the cave climbing on wet holds payed off even here in Margalef. The top crux of Terrence Hill was wet. Having to do a big move off of a one finger pocket proved to be no problem. I have found out that the key when it comes to wet holds is not to hesitate and not chalking up, as it only makes the rock more slippery.
Crossing the flooded river Photo: Henning Wang
The restdays are usually spent on the world wide web at the local cafe. Ordering countless numbers of “cafe con leche” to justify spending so much time there and slowing down their already very slow internet.
Due to some heavy work being done to the street we live on we are woken every morning by a very large machine digging up the 600 year old street. Who said the Spaniards were lazy? They start working at 7am, and rain don’t seem to be any excuse to give us some quiet.
Our very efficient alarm clock. Photo: Henning Wang
One way ticket to Spain
0I got a one way ticket to Spain this time. The plan is to spend this whole month here. I want to finish Neanderthal. Norrøna joined me the first days to document the life down here. The gypsy lifestyle. Now they have left and it’s time to get back into sending mode. But first I need two restdays, starting today. Yesterday it started raining and I’m a little worried it will seep through. The game plan is to do one day on my project, one day climbing on easier routes and one rest day. That way I can maintain the level of skin, fitness and psyche.
Weather forecast
Spanish week
0I’m finally reunited with the route that has been haunting me in my dreams ever since I had to leave it one year ago. I had to man up to get back on it. It’s a very humbling experience to try something so hard. Every move is a fight. Today will the 4th day of working it. The progress so far has extended all my expectations. It feels like I immediately was able to pick up right where I left it, almost a year ago. I got two new high-points right away, and yesterday I fell on the last dyno crux. However it still feels like I have a way to go before conquering this wild beast. Although Neanderthal makes me feel clumsy and weak, I know it will be a rewarding experience in so many ways. For me it’s not about being in good or bad shape, it’s about improving as a climber.
On wednesday I leave to go back to Norway for a week. Mainly to rest. Then it’s back to Spain for some serious business. My main goal for this short little trip was just to wreck myself on Neanderthal. So far it doesn’t look like I will have any problems with that part.
2012 Photo: Henning Wang
Nice end to 2012
0On the 31st I did a new route in the Santa Linya cave. Analogia Natural was an already established route rated 8c+/9a with a weird anchor placed 8 meters or so from the top of the cave. However there was a bolted line going up left and to the very top of the cave, which gave the route a very nice obvious end. So I decided that instead of clipping the old anchor I wanted to go for the very top. I fell once after the first anchor, on some dynamic moves on the new end, before I finally clipped the anchor of what I think should be the new end to this route. The 8 meters adds another top crux. That’s why I think this route deserves the 9a grade.
Having spent so much time in Santa Linya over the years I don’t have many routes left. I only have a few 9a’s and harder. So all my time is spent on working the really hard routes that I yet haven’t done. Some of which don’t suit my style of climbing. It can be mentally hard sometimes, but I think it’s necessary for me to evolve as a climber.
As you might have noticed I changed sponsors from 2013. I will tell you more about it soon.
Spanish escape
0About 10 days ago I jumped on a plain to Barcelona to avoid the cold brutal weather that was heading towards Norway. With no ambitions of climbing anything specific, but to chill in Spain relaxing after some brutal months of globetrotting and competing. I decided it was better to take it easy in Spain than being snowed in, in my apartment in Oslo. I have had some relaxing days here. In a couple of days I fly back to Oslo for a week to take care of some business. Then it’s back to laid back Spain with some of my good friends. Mario and Jakob from Austria. And Jorg from Holland, soon to be Austrian too. The next weeks I refuse to project anything really hard. I need to take it easy and have some childish fun for a while. It will get serious soon enough. Peace out!
Two videos
0These videos made by Kieran Kolle have been out there on the World Wide Web for a while. Though I forgot to link to them. Matre is such an amazing place for bouldering. I would recommend it to anyone!
Magnus Midtbø – Blood Redemption (first ascent) from SJAU on Vimeo.
Magnus Midtbø – All in all out from SJAU on Vimeo.
Tetto di Sarre
0Yesterday I went with the Austrian team to a crag called Tetto di Sarre, just across the border to Italy. We left Chamonix in the rain, and after one very expensive 11 kilometer long tunnel, we were in sunny Italy. It was a small crag mainly chipped. But for training it was okay. Everything I got on felt very soft. I did two 8b’s and one 8a+ onsight, including some easier routes. On the end of the day I fell after all the hard climbing on my second go on a 8c+/9a. So a pretty good day of climbing. It’s always hard to say if something is soft or if you are just in good shape. I think a combination of both.
Crossroad
0I’m at a major crossroad. Neanderthal has gotten gradually more wet, until yesterday when it all of a sudden got hot. It seems like at this time of year it’s either wet, but good temps or dry and too hot to climb. I still have my ticket back to Norway the day after tomorrow. Right now I don’t see any point of extending my stay, as it seems it will only lead to me getting out of shape. My skin has also taken a beating, leaving me with a new blood blister every day. By tonight I have to decide what to do. The choice won’t be easy.
Here is the link to the NRK article and film. I was not able to see it here in Spain, so it might only be available from Norway.
Progress
0Yesterday NRK was here to film, so I had no choice but to get on Neanderthal again, even though some of the holds were still wet. I was surprised by how well it went. I managed to link up to the wet holds from the ground, and continue through the crux after pulling the draw to get through the wet. Where I used to feel like a bag of potatoes it now felt effortless. I finally feel like the route is within my grasp. If the wet holds only could dry up, im ready to give it ground-up tries. My only problem now is that everyone is leaving. I desperately need someone to climb with! But I will do what it takes. I’m not leaving empty handed this time. I said “no retreat no surrender” and Im gonna stick to that statement. I’ll camp out in the cave for weeks if I have to.
While waiting for the route to dry up, I have been going to different crags repeating routes, onsighting and redpointing easier stuff. Obviously it has done wonders!
For you norwegians NRK will most likely show the footage on “Sportsrevyen” sunday. It will be on their webiste as well, and I will post the link as soon as it’s out.
Stay tuned…
Spain calling
0Spain is calling once again. On thursday I head south with Kiffen and Jarle. We will meet up with Hannah (my sister) and Henning in Santa Linya, where they have a house. My goal has not changed, Neanderthal is still haunting me in my dreams. I consider my chances of sending to be pretty unlikely, but that is not gonna stop me from trying my best. No retreat no surrender!
On this trip I also want to try other climbs. Now that the days are longer I hope we can do two sessions a day, with a rest in between when it’s at its hottest. Trying other routes will get me in better shape as well.
NRK is coming down to Spain to film for a couple of days. I’m really excited about that, but I also guess that means the pressure is on. Preform monkey!
Santa Linya summary
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My week in Santa Linya was drastically shortened due to a nasty cut in my finger on the first day on Neanderthal. I tried taking three rest days for it to heal, however it didn’t help much. On the last days I got to work the route one or two times, before the blood and pain took over.
Though this trip didn’t quite turn out the way I had hoped I’m still optimistic. If I can get back to Santa Linya in top shape, before it gets too hot I think I have a fair chance of sending. All I can do now is take a few days off in hopes of my finger to heal completely, before starting to train.
A week in Santa Linya
0Today Jarle and I decided to book tickets to Spain. Could only get away for a week – six days of climbing. I’m planning to spend all my time working the Neanderthal route in Santa Linya. By the end of the trip I will hopefully get a feeling of the route, and whether or not I think it can go. On my last trip I went through it once and did all the hard moves. Linking it however will be a completely different story. I hope to be back in Spain beginning of April for a longer amount of time, in sending mode!
Directa open your mind film:
0Here is a film from Directa open your mind 9a in Santa Linya. Thanks to Kristoffer Thorbjørnsen for film and edit! This film is only filmed from the ground, though Henning Wang has footage from above that will be used in a bigger production later on.
So long Spain, we will meet again soon!
0Before I left Spain I got to try Neanderthal 9b, which Chris Sharma put up back in 2009 and hasn’t seen an ascent since. It’s a super intimidating line going straight through the Santa Linya cave. I went through it one time, and could do all the moves. Though, putting all the moves together is a different story on this 50 meter long route. 9a into a hard boulder problem without any rest, followed by an 8b.
Photo: Henning Wang
Directa open your mind 9a
0This 9a took me slightly longer than expected. I got really close some days ago, but underestimated the top section and fell there a couple of times before I sent the route yesterday in the sun. The day before that I did what people tell me is the first on sight of Codigo Norte 8b. Really nice route! Tomorrow we are climbing at Oliana. Psyched to try some hard on sights.
Pictures and video will be posted soon…
Fuck the system 9a on second day in Spain!
0Today I surprised myself by sending fuck the system 9a. I tried the route briefly when I was here two weeks ago, and then it felt like it would take me a lot longer. The time I spent at home resting seems to have helped. Now I’m ready to try something harder! And congrats to my sister for doing Fabelita, her first 8c!
Here are some video stills taken by Henning Wang:
Winter in Spain
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Hello all and my apologies for not writing in a while. I tend to loose motivation for writing when my climbing isn’t going well. Though that is perhaps exactly when I should write. This competition season started off amazing, but ended terrible. I have been reflecting on what I could have done wrong and I am afraid I don’t have an answer. Normally at this time of year I like to take a break, but because I feel like I haven’t preformed, I’m feeling restless. So I will not take a break yet.
After the World Cup in Barcelona I stayed there with some good friends of mine; Jakob Shubert (Austria), Daisuke Konishi and Sachi Anma (Japan). I tred a few hard routes, which confirmed my lack of endurance, though made me really psyched to get in shape again. Therefore I’m flying back to Spain in only a week from now!
We spend some time in Oliana and Santa Linya. Being back in Santa Linya brought back a lot of good memories. In 2008 I slept in the cave for a week, to do La Novena Enmienda, which was my first 9a+. Since then a lot of hard routes has been put up. And when I go back to Spain now, that is where I want to climb the most. I just pray the weather will be good. At this time of year I have experienced weeks of nonstop rain in Spain.
After the world cup I managed to do couple of pretty hard routes, as well as many easier routes:
- Maroncita 8b On Sight
- Picos Pardos 8b Flash
Both of which used to be 8b+.
Here is the short version of the La Novena Enmienda Video from 2008.
Venga!
Nordic Flower!
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Nordic flower is sent and done! Have had some wet and cold days in Flatanger, however the cave has stayed dry, except for a few places where the water seeps through.
Tried the first 1/3 of the route one time in May on my first visit. This trip I only went through it one time to put chalk on the holds and fix the draws. Next try I surprised myself by sending the first part, without even trying the last part (my rope wasn’t long enough). Next try I did the whole thing. I’m not sure about the 9a grade, but on such a beautiful route I don’t thing the grade even matters. Without doubt the most beautiful route I have ever done!
I also tried my project today, and I did the only move I hadn’t done. That means next year I can start trying to link it. Though I have done all the moves it feels like I’m miles away from actually doing it.
Flatanger – 2nd round!
0Driving up to Flatanger tonight! Will get two days of intense bolting. My goal is to get started on a route throughout the whole cave. So around 300 meters. I think I would like to do it as a multi-pitch. I haven´t tried many really hard multi-pitches before, so that will be a new experience for me. Normally I only need to focus on one pitch. But in order to do a long route like that, I need to be able to work and to memorize maybe up to 10 pitches. I’m excited about it, and I think there could be some really hard multi-pitches up there. I have also thought about doing a route Alibaba-style, clipping in and out different ropes. That way you can climb 300 meters without hanging. But it takes a lot of work to fix the ropes in the wall, besides climbing 300 meters in one push, might be a little overkill. Any suggestions on how to do it?
Anyways… first the routes need to be bolted.
Masters Edge
0Thought I would share some footage from Masters Edge with you. As you might be able to see this is my first time ever using iMovie.
The new hotspot!!
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If you look up steep hard climbing in the dictionary in a few years, I bet you it will say Flatanger. The cave surpassed all my expectations! During the ice age this cave took shape below sea level. The sea flushed away the weak rock. As the ice melted the country raised and woolah… the perfect cave is made!
I went there with my friends Runar Carlsen, Laurent Laporte and Øystein Johnsen. Eirik Birkelund Olsen also bolted for a couple of days. We started by boltiong the best lines we could find. I decided to bolt a route going through the roof in the middle of the cave. 65 meters long, with an anchor half way. To the first anchor I think it´s at least 9a. I tried the moves on the first length, and if I were to give the different sections of the route boulder grades, it has one 7C, four 7C+ and one 8a+ boulder. And that is only the first length. Though I don´t think the second length too hard. So it won´t change the grade too much. But it could definitely be 9a+.
Laurent bolted a 30 meter long route, even steeper than mine! Really cool climbing. It has a 7C boulder at the start, then it´s about 8b from there. So my guess for that one would be 8b+ or 8c. He also bolted a french ass technical route on the vertical. I didn´t even bother trying it. Looked really hard and awkward. Not my cup of tea!
Eirik bolted a route in the left part of the cave. More technical on smaller holds. But with “new school” moves! Think it´s around 8c. Has a burly bolder half way up.
Apart from those hard routes we also bolted a lot of easier routes on the left side of the cave. Øystein bolted a route on the right side that looks just amazing. Have´t tried it myself, but from what Øystein said, it´s probably around 8a/+?
The only problem with the cave is that the first 10 meters tend to be pretty blank, without too many holds. Therefor I think if we want to bolt more routes in there, we have to use the beginning of routes already bolted. Or we can just go check out one of the other 7 caves in the area.
I only got to try the routes one or two time, to brush and to suggest a rough grade. Since I want to take part in the event that is planned here for next year, I couldn’t try the routes too much. The plan is to invite some of the best climbers in the world. Four days to do the projects, and a cash price on all of them. Sounds like it will be a fun event, and I really want to be a part of it. But on the other side, I wish I could drive back up there soon and climb on those amazing routes! Not sure I can wait a whole year!?
Here are some more photos:
FA Antonio Vivaldi 8B (V13)
0Better late than never. Here is the video of Antonio Vivaldi 8B that I did in Stavanger about a week ago. Super nice!!
10 hours of bolting = 30 meters!!
0Bolted for 10 hours straight pretty much and got 30 meters through the overhang. It looks like nothing because of the size of the cave. Never seen anything like it. So overwhelming! Unfortunately I can’t post any photos for now. There is absolutely no way to get online here… its really in the middle of nowhere!
Had to write this on an iPhone.
Living large in Kentucky mansion!
0Rain in RRG. Luckily it started raining after climbing. I don´t know if it´s a good or a bad thing. The weather has been so hot lately, maybe the showers will do the rock good. Sasha keeps crushing regardless and makes everything look so effortless. Today she onsighted her first 8b! – As she skipped a grade by onsighting Omaha Beach.
As soon as we got back from climbing it started pouring down. But we are comfortable and dry thanks to Miguels Pizza who hooked us up with our very own mansion up in the Kentucky mountains!
Mammut team trip 2010
0For those of you who haven´t already seen it. Mammut team trip 2010. A little helicopter with a camera attached to it was used to get new spectacular angles – never seen in climbing movies before!
Blood Redemption
0Blood Redemption (Gjeddehenget sit start) 8C: Last try, last minute today I did the hardest problem of my life, together with and captured by Made Production. I have been working on this problem every time I’ve been in Bergen the last few years. I did Gjeddehenget before it broke, when it was 8B/8B+, though that wasn’t the very sit start. Today at the very last minute I did the hardest problem of my life. Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder – Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done! I propose 8C for this boulder, even though I have never done an established 8B+ before. This suits me better than any other Boulder. Mostly because of its length – 24 moves. The length also makes it less specific – it’s not all about one or two moves. Side note: In June I did another hard beautiful problem at Matre long referred to as the double dyno project. I named it ‘All in all out’ and gave it 8B.
Tick list:
0Rodellar tick list:
- RP – Ali hulk sit extension 9b
- RP – Les borrachos del Mascun 8c+
- OS – Pequena estrella 8b+
- OS – El chorreras o la belle inconue 8b/b+
- OS – La Kanabica 8b
- OS – La Banda 8b
- OS – Les Chacals 8b
- OS – Grisou 8a+
- OS – El Corredor de la muerte 8a+
- OS – Las dosgolondrinas de la piscineta 8a+
- OS – Sierra de Guarras 8a+
- OS – Paideia 8a+
- OS – No limit L2 8a+
- OS – Aporia 8a+
- OS – Evasion 8a+
- OS – The kings of metal L2 8a+
- FL – Lola L2 8a+
Sent and done!
0Finally did it! More than three weeks of working the route in the ali baba cave. I am so relieved! I only had one and a half days left in Rodellar – perfect timing. I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn’t too tired. I rested the whole day as usual and I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong – it didn’t feel as desperate as before! I also had good conditions. There was a nice breeze for the first time in a while. I have never put so much time towards a climb before. It sure payed off in the end. For those of you who have seen Dani Andrada on film trying the route, I do it a little different. I climbed the first part without a rope, but with a harness. When I got to the rest at the end of ali baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner. Dani got someone to put the harness, with the rope on him. As far as I know it is the second ascent of the route, and the second confirmed 9b in the world! Credit to Sasha for coming with me to the cave every evening at prime time! Tomorrow I will go back to the cave to get some better photos and maybe even film. We will wake up early so that we can get some onsight climbing in at piscineta first!
….even closer
0Fell off the jug on the 9b, where it’s supposed to be over. I was so pumped after fighting bad condition through the whole route. Never thought I could fall off the last jugs. Pretty pissed at myself right now. Have only two days left. I have been trying my route in the evening – so the first half of the day I just hang out and belay Sasha. The 9b has definitely given me more of a fight than I was expecting. Changing my beta all the time – back and forth. This is getting really frustrating!
A good day in the ali baba cave!
0Tried Ali Hulk sit extension 9b today, and fell on the last very hard move. I think I will take a rest day tomorrow then go ‘a muerte’ the next day. Might also give it a go tomorrow evening, depending on how I feel. I can’t get much more than one good try a day. I’m so exhausted I feel like I’m going to faint after every try. Don’t have too much time left here, but I obviously really want to finish this climb before driving to Innsbruck. And it looks like it can go!
9a+
0Super psyched to have done Ali Hulk Extension 9a+! Took me longer than any other route I have worked – therefore it feels extra sweet! It rained a lot yesterday so today it felt very humid. But I felt strong and managed to do it despite bad conditions. Now I’m working the sit start into it. We will rest tomorrow. The day after the restday we are planning on going to Picinetas to onsight. Hopefully the day after that I can try the sit start. Working routes in the Ali-baba cave has definitely gotten me in shape. Yesterday I did two 8b’s onsight.
Back in Rodellar!!!
0Sasha and I are back in Rodellar, just like last year. We have been here for about 10 days, and we finally feel like we are getting in shape. Sasha have been trying Welcome to Tijuana and I have been trying different routes in the Ali Baba cave. At first sight the cave dosen’t look that impressive, but after fooling around in it for a few days it is growing on me. Today I sent Ali Hulk 9a. Sasha sent her project earlier today – both very happy! I still haven’t finished what I first set my eyes on tho – Hopefully the next days I can do Ali hulk extension 9a+ and maybe even a sit start into it, graded 9b! Before we got here we travelled way too much, and felt kinda out of shape because of that. We first flew to Frankfurt where we rented a car. After picking up the car we drove to Chamonix, then to Arco for the pre World Championships. We stayed there a few days after the conp to climb outside. The third day we got robbed – they broke into our car and got both our wallets and Sashas phone and passport. After dealing with Italian police we had only three days in Ceuse before doing a comp in Briancon, France. After the comp we decided it was time to get real. So we drove all the way to Rodellar, pretty much non stop. After spending some time here we finally feel like we are in shape again So get ready for more sends! A teaste of how our trip has been like so far:
Mammut photo shoot in Stavanger, Norway
0Once again I’m back in Innsbruck. This time after a Mammut photo shot in Stavanger, Norway. These past three weeks has been the most hectic weeks of my life. I haven’t gotten to train and I feel exhausted from all the traveling and stress. Airplanes and airports has become my home. A lonely traveller. Thats why I have decided to not do the World Cup next weekend in Puurs, Belgium. Puurs is my favorite place for World Cups. The tall and steep wall suites my climbing style perfectly. A part of me still wants to go, but I have decided not to, in fear of becoming completely burnt out. Lately I have only been doing what everyone else have wanted me to. It’s now time to do what I want. First on the list is to get back in shape. The 7th of october I will go to Red River Gorges with Sasha for a few days. The rest of the month is dedicated to making climbing movie… if the weather allows us. In Norway that is not something you can take for granted. It looks like we will start shooting around Stavanger – the same place as the Mammut photo shot. So I already know the place a little. At the Mammut shot I already did three really good first ascents. One of which was more like a route – around 10 meters tall. By far the most scariest thing I have ever done! I’m not very good at grading boulders, but I would say it’s about 7C? However, it felt a lot harder because of the hight. Falling off the end of this boulder is no option! I might do the boulder again for the movie, although I swore to myself I would never do that, or anything like it ever again. Some of the boulders I did: Hoka hey 7C FA Lysebotn (highball) GoodYear 7C FA (starting off two goodyear tires) Cyborg 7C flash Cyborg sit start 8A 3rd try Cyberman 7C/7C+ FA (a boulder I found close to cyborg) Moon Arete 7C+ Lysebotn
Matre 2nd part
0I just got back to Oslo from another trip to Matre. Mainly to shoot for the pilot. However, I managed to climb one of the nicest projects there – a double dyno. Haven’t found a name fore it yet. And I’m not sure about the grade either. I think it’s 8A+ (V12) or 8B (V13). There is also a sit start to it, that I hope to do next time I’m there. I don’t think it makes it much harder though. The dyno will be in the pilot for sure. I might also get a short version of it to upload here on my homepage. I also did; To sure og en sint 8A (V11). And On my last trip to Matre I climbed another project, Karate Kid 8A (V11). Today Sasha left Norway to fly back to the U.S. She came for a short visit. I got to show her some of the climbing around Oslo and Bergen. In Bergen we went to areas that I haven’t been to in many years. All the areas appeared very different from what I remembered. For instance, the big overhang in Loddefjord didn’t look quite as big and overhanging as it once used to. I find it it’s very strange how my view has changed after climbing more in Southern Europe, where the routes are bigger, steeper and better. On Saturday I’m flying all the way to Xining, China. To be honest I’m not too psyched. First of all because of the flight. Oslo – Amsterdam – Beijing – Xining. And also since I have been to China three times already. When I get back from China I have a very tight schedule. I will get back the 7th of July. The 8th and 9th we hope to shoot Malaria, Myggveggen. The last climb we need for the pilot. But we really depend on good weather, because the 10th I have to be on the road towards Chamonix. After Chamonix I will park my car somewhere in Sentral Europe and fly to Utah for the Mammut Competition.
Sogndal, Norway
0Due to the rain last night the project was wet. Tomorrow morning I will fly back to Oslo. I hope to be back soon in Sogndal to climb it. It might be really hard. Right now it felt like a 8b route into a 7B+ boulder, no rest. But it is hard to say, since it’s a crack crux. It’s also a lot steeper than it appers in the photos. The 19th I will drive to Bergen to shoot a pilot. A company from Bergen are planning to make a climbing movie from Norway. It sounds very interesting! I will write more about that later..
El Templo Del Cafe
0I got my Christmas present today. El Templo Del Cafe 8c+. As I wrote on news, the route felt more like 8c+ to me. I am surprised no one have suggested a downgrade before. As usual I did not really warm up. I started the day with onsighting; Los Atletas De La Roca 8a+. Then I rested for some hours, before doing El Tiempo Del Cafe on the firs try of the day. Tonight we will drive to Lleida to get a proper dinner. Tomorrow we will probably climb at Magalef. New area, syked!!
